Pitless adapter tool size

Install the app. Water is life. JavaScript is disabled. For a better experience, please enable JavaScript in your browser before proceeding. You are using an out of date browser. It may not display this or other websites correctly. You should upgrade or use an alternative browser. Thread starter Regis Tration Start date Jun 2, Regis Tration New Member. Messages 24 Reaction score 0 Points 1 Location Massachusetts. Hello: I am going to need to remove the pump from my well so that I can try to cut away the corroded well casing please see picture and replace it with new casing.

Can I just pull on the copper pipe that rises above the well casing to raise the pump? Do I need a special tool to work with the pitless adapter? Also, how do I get the pitless adapter back together down there after I put the pump back down in the well?

In case it's of any relevance, the pump is at a depth of approximately feet. Next, you will need to remove the brass nut "A", the brass washer "B" and the outside rubber washer "C". Safety Tip: To prevent separation of the slide pitless from the elbow during installation, simply insert a short piece of wooden dowel or plastic pipe in the pitless discharge of the slide into the elbow. The wood or plastic pipe will act as a safety pin.

The safety pin secures the slide to the elbow and pull pipe assembly eliminating the risk of accidentally dropping the slide pitless down the well. Also, be sure it is a sufficient diameter. Once "A", "B" and "C" have been removed, you will need to thread a portion of steel pipe into the top of the pitless elbow "F". Then lower it inside the well casing, carefully inserting the slide through the pre-cut hole.

Make sure that the rubber washer, "D" is making direct contact with the inside of the well casing. Next, you will need to install the outer rubber washer "C", brass washer "B" and the brass nut "A" from outside of the well casing.

You will need to hand tighten the nut ensuring the washer contour is aligned with the casing profile. On June 19, a man named Milton B. Martinson filed a patent with the U.

Patent Office that would modernize well installation and make life easier for well owners and service professionals alike. Original patent for the pitless adapter. Thanks Milton!

The primary function of the pitless adapter is to provide a junction for the drop pipe in the well to connect to the water line running to the house. This is a fundamental design difference in and of itself- however, there are a number of improvements that in total make the pitless adapter a revolutionary addition to well technology.

First and foremost, the side exit allows the wellhead to be extended above ground. Not only does this greatly reduce the chances of surface water contamination through the top of the well, it provides an easy point of entry for well maintenance. If the area around the well must be excavated, the wellhead provides an excellent point of reference to avoid damaging the existing well components.

The male-female design of the pitless adapter makes it relatively easy to work on the interior components of the well. By screwing a tool called a t-bar in to the threaded top part of the adapter, the drop pipe, wire, and submersible pump or jet assembly in the case of a jet pump can be removed from the well without compromising any parts of the existing installation.

The best way to locate a well and well casing to avoid surface water contamination is shown in this illustration. You can figure on about 1.

Except in certain artesian walls the water column does not extend from the well bottom to the top of the ground. What's cool about most pitless adapters used on water wells is that inside the well casing the component of the pitless adapter that attaches to the top of the well piping is designed to simply slide up and out of the remaining pitless adapter parts bolted and sealed to the casing side. This feature is what allows us to pull the well piping and submersible pump or foot valve completely out of the well without having to dig up and expose and disassemble the pitless adapter from outside the well.

Our photo above-left shows the mating face of a pitless adapter just after the well driller pulled the well piping and pitless adapter slip fitting up out of an existing well. This well installation was in Two Harbors, Minnesota where the freeze depth can be so severe that many installers put the pitless adapter eight feet below the ground surface to be sure it and the exiting well piping are below the frost line. This pitless adapter was not leaking, but this is a place we'd check for leaks if we were looking for a leak in well piping.

Our photo above shows a top-sealed well casing that is designed to permit a single well pipe and some wiring to pass out of the top of the well casing. This well was located indoors in a New York home - not a great idea - in the building basement. From what we see, a single water pipe exiting the well and wiring entering the well, we expect to find a submersible well pump installed here. Our second photo above shows how a compression type well casing top seal works: bolts tightened through the outside top of the seal compress a rubber gasket between two steel plates.

The expanding rubber gasket seals around pipes, wiring conduit, or whatever fittings were designed to pass through this well cap. Below we illustrate a conventional sealing well casing top cap used where only electrical conduit must enter the well casing above ground. At this well the water pipe exits below ground using a pitless adapter.

If that leaves you with any questions please don't hesitate to ask. Thank you for the important and interesting point, George, I'll be sure it's kept with the article here and in our article series on galvanic corrosion of plumbing parts.